by Sue Giustino
In 2019 Seaford restaurateur Amy Breidenbach, -Crabby Amy’s (est. 1998) and Catfish Max (2001–2012)— brought her culinary passion to Montauk, opening what is now a Montauk favorite, Gin Beach Café-perched above the docks at the Montauk Anglers Club on East Lake Drive.
Now, honoring her father retired FDNY Captain Jim “Cap” Breidenbach, Amy opened Cap’s Montauk (in what was ‘Sammy’s’ Restaurant). The original Cap’s was opened by her dad 41 years ago in Seaford, along the Great South Bay.
In a laid-back seafood spot, Jim and Maureen Breidenbach served the freshest local catches coming straight off the boats. Cap’s quickly became known for more than just great seafood—it was a gathering place for locals and visitors to meet for great local catch, a cold beer, and a laugh with friends. Unfortunately, in October 2012 Superstorm Sandy tore through the region, and Cap’s was literally swept away by the storm; the beloved local landmark was gone and rebuilding wasn’t an option.
When Sammy’s in the Harbor became available, Amy was able to secure the location and honor her roots. After a bit of renovation, a ‘Cap’ spotlight displaying her dad’s NYFD turnout coat and helmet, and a creative menu highlighting fresh local fare, Chef Amy is once again continuing her family tradition right here in Montauk, only this time it hits a little closer to home.
“Cap’s is making its long-awaited return—this time in Montauk Harbor, taking over the beloved old Sammy’s location on the docks. With a renewed sense of tradition and a continued commitment to fresh, local seafood and warm hospitality, Cap’s is back to welcome neighbors, friends, and travelers alike. It’s a new home for an old soul—a chance to make fresh memories while keeping the spirit of Cap’s of Seaford Harbor alive and well on the East End.” https://www.capsmtk.com/our-place
I’ve never had the pleasure of visiting Cap’s in Seafood, but walking into Cap’s Montauk, one gets a warm welcoming feeling which after learning about the history, I can only infer is how patrons felt in the original Cap’s. The dark wood tables surrounded by a wall of windows looking out to the harbor creates something you may call nautically cozy.
The welcome we received from Ginger- yes, the one and only- who also worked for Sammy, just amplifies the welcoming feeling. Having the option of sitting in the dining area or the bar, we chose a high-top in the bar room. From behind the refinished spacious bar, Fergal creates some crafty treats, including a Culloden Colada, Manor Mojitos, Deep Hollow Ranch Bourbon Manhattan, and Carl Fishers White Whale– to name just a few. We sampled a few tasty ones including the Amistad Dark and Stormy, Cosmopolitan, and a Mezcal Negroni.
After Ginger’s brief overview of some of the house and evening specials, we decided on the Potted Shrimp, Oven Baked Oysters, Bangkok Calamari, and Ahi Tuna Tostada-and that doesn’t even cover the first half of the appetizer’s column. LI Steamers, Fried Ipswich Clams, Smoked Fish Dip, Wings, and House made Potato Chips served with classic onion dip which we’re saving for another time.
Prepared in a crock with a light perfectly balanced lemon butter broth and topped with puff pastry, this Potted Shrimp is a unique take on this classic British dish, which is often served with fresh warm bread. Simply delicious is what comes to mind; the natural sweetness of the shrimp is enhanced with the flavor of the buttery broth, while the textures are nicely balanced with the crispness of the pastry.
‘Potted shrimp is traditionally made with small brown shrimp (like those from Morecambe Bay), cooked in spiced butter and preserved in individual pots or ramekins by sealing with a layer of clarified butter.’
Their Oven Baked Oysters are dressed with a gentle blend of spinach, roasted shallots, fresh herbs and a drizzle of bearnaise, quite a treat for the oyster lover. If oysters are not your thing, the tender Ahi Tuna blended with avocado, cucumber, corn, ponzu and cusabi, all on a corn tortilla is also a fresh, delicious, and light choice. One of my favorites was the Bangkok Calamari– a different take on fried calamari as it’s served in a brown take-out box offering a little clam-shack seaside authenticity and a great way to layer. The tender flash fried calamari with a light yet crispy coating, sit atop a flavorful bed of peanut and scallion noodles and is served are with a side of Thai sweet chili sauce.
As we were contemplating dinner options, Amy sent out a special of the evening, a lovely dish of Seared Scallops with a delicate bacon butter sauce -all topped with crispy spinach. I’m not a big bacon fan, but this dish is prepared with just a hint of bacon, allowing the sweet and slightly briny flavor along with the tender, buttery texture of the scallops to prevail. Overall, it’s an absolute treat, and the crispy spinach is the icing on the cake. A side order of that Crispy Spinach is also available, be sure to give it a try.
At Cap’s, Lobster Rolls come in many styles, there are five choices on the menu, including a Junior. We tried the Connecticut style with mounds of poached lobster adorning a toasted split roll with a side of melted herbed butter and a dill pickle- absolutely delicious. The menu also includes other tasty sandwich choices like a Crispy fish ‘Reuben”, Crab Cake Brioche, Taco’s, Cajun Chicken, Burgers-including a Tuna Burger, and my favorite [one of the few items also available at Gin Beach] Crunchy Tuna Wrap.
And then there are the Entrees and/or Lobsters by the pound. A perfect array of choices from land and sea. We chose the Montauk Fluke which is egg battered and pan seared, layered with roasted tomatoes and fresh mozzarella, atop a bed of steamed spinach with a light lemon wine sauce- a mouthwatering combination of flavors and textures. The fork tender Blackened Local Tilefish is finished with a delicate maple pecan butter adding a balanced hint of maple without the sweetness, and is served with crisp sweet potato fries and homemade Jicama Slaw. Our final entrée was the Shellfish Pasta which we ordered Fra Diavlo, but can also be prepared with a choice of Bianco or Marinara. A bowl of linguini is topped with a generous blend of shellfish: clams, mussels, scallops, and shrimp. It wasn’t a spicy dish, yet the light sauce was prepared with enough spice to enjoy each individual taste of the shellfishes with just an accent of the delicious Fra Diavlo flavor. Chef Amy and assistant chef Daniel Guzman expertly prepared each of these fish entrees with a beautiful presentation and fine ingredients complementing their unique fresh flavors.
After this delightful meal, you’d think we had no room. However, I had checked the dessert menu earlier and saw they had S’mores, so I tried hard to save some room. What arrived was a cute individual burner on a plate with graham crackers, chocolate bars, marshmallows, and of course toasting sticks. It was a fun yummy way to share a tasty treat. Of course, the other choices sounded great as well, so we enjoyed the Key Lime Parfait and Crème Brule. Creamy, Tart and layered with graham cracker crumbs, the Key Lime Parfait is a wonderful alternative to the traditional pie. While the Crème Brule with its delightful contrast in textures and flavors – creamy, cold custard beneath a crispy, warm, slightly burnt sugar top and fresh berries- was described as the creamiest most ‘angelic’ that a member of our party ever tasted.
Although primarily fish, Cap’s menu offers enough alternatives to please any palate. Overlooking Montauk Harbor with seating outside on the patio, in the bar area, or the dining room, it’s a great choice for gatherings with friends and family. They even have a very reasonable Kids menu with a choice of six dishes accompanied by fries and a soft drink.
‘Cappy Hour’ anyone? Enjoy appetizer and drink specials at the bar M-F from 3-5pm. Caps is located at 448 West Lake Drive and is open 7day/week from 11:30am-9pm. Check their website for special events and additional information- https://www.capsmtk.com/ or call 631-238-5707 for reservations.
