A Healthy, Simple Approach to Market Fresh Cuisine
by Sue Giustino
Backyard @ Sole East is a delightfully classy garden restaurant. Newly renovated, the restaurant and bar have a fresh, open, chic appeal with bifold glass doors to the patio and an aesthetically pleasing louvered awning for your dining comfort. The Backyard is located on the grounds of the lovely landmark American Tudor building on second house road, surrounded by lush lawns and gardens with bamboo walkways. Dine indoors, on the side veranda by the vast lawn with flower and herb gardens and adjacent firepit, or on the back patio while overlooking the glass-enclosed, heated pool with oversized St Tropez style beds lining the plush perimeter, complete with high privacy hedges and beach grass.
As soon as you walk onto the grounds, you feel as if you’ve arrived at a luxury resort in a remote location. The classically casual feel of the restaurant with a woodburning fireplace, fits perfectly with the finely landscaped surroundings; the welcoming staff and fabulous food completes the experience. Shawn, the manager, greeted us at the bar offering a lovely poolside table on the patio. Welcomed once again by Marcus, our friendly waiter, we ordered a few of the refreshing cocktails and sat back to enjoy the slight breeze and peacefulness of the scenic backyard.
Sipping on a Backyard Punch with a gentle coconut finish, a light and refreshing Hot Tauk with hints of watermelon and a bit of spice, and a thirst-quenching tequila Paloma, Marcus delivered a board of freshly made pumpernickel sourdough bread. Accompanied with a slice of butter soaking in a dish olive oil with an aged balsamic drizzle and roasted garlic. Our evening was off to a great start!
The list of Ciccheti, or small plates, is complete offering chowder, gazpacho, salads, crudo and tartare, a Mediterranean or meat and cheese plate, mussels, and our three choices. The Roasted Vegetable Salad with a light herb tahini dressing blended into a pleasing display of arugula, baby carrots, delicata squash and quinoa was a bowl of goodness- fresh, flavorful, and bursting with natural goodness. Not to be outdone, the perfectly tender Grilled Octopus is served atop a bed of pickled gigante beans with olive tapenade and herb aioli perfectly complimenting the gentle flavor of the squid. Although we savored each dish, it seemed the favorite was the crisp Flat Bread with goat cheese with a creamy whipped consistency, topped with paper thin apple and prosciutto slices, and adorned with baby arugula with a hint of pepper and grated cheese, all blending perfectly creating a wonderful experience of flavor and texture.
Chef Eduardo knows how to create wonderfully flavorful, yet simple and clean dishes. The house made ‘light as air’ Gnocchi with a pungent lamb ragu, parmesan and fresh mint is a perfect example. The ‘pasta pillows’, as my friend described them, melted in your mouth while the competing flavors of the ragu and mint made your taste buds come alive. On a lighter side, the Crabmeat Pasta uses Paccheri which are large, hollow, tube-shaped pasta. Its large flat shape captures the essence of the gentle crabmeat accented with a light Meyer lemon and chili flake sauce, along with the sprinkle of toasted breadcrumbs adding another dimension of texture and flavors that pop in your mouth with each bite.
Simply off the Grill is an intriguing section of the menu. Offering four choices of local tuna or monkfish, swordfish, and NY Strip with chimichurri, to pair with your choice of an array of sides. I chose the catch of the day, Striped Bass to have grilled with a side of Broccoli Rabe. The lightly seasoned fish was tender and juicy with a crisp top securing the natural juices. The contrast of the bold flavorful Broccoli Rabe prepared with garlic and a touch of red pepper made for a perfect combination. Other sides available include creamy polenta, truffle fries, grilled asparagus, or charred shishito peppers.
Although dessert was not an option for us after all of the scrumptious food we ate, be sure to ask about the menu. From past experience, I know that the choices are deliciously decadent.
One of the things I love about eating at Sole, is that each year, utilizing homegrown herbs and locally sourced produce and fish, the menu may look the same, but the dishes are created a bit differently. The flatbread will have a new variety of toppings, a few main dish items will be substituted while some remain, ingredients for the gazpacho, type of homemade pasta, or salad will be vary… thus allowing diners to return and experience something familiar, yet not exactly the same.
Whether you visit for a leisurely Sunday brunch, breakfast, lunch, dinner, or cocktails with friends, this is the perfect escape. Savory, clean, healthy food choices and a private, stylishly serene, picturesque environment that’s hard to beat. As always, owner/operator since 2006, Dave Seva and his staff are doing a fabulous job. The elegant transformation that occurred as a result of the recent renovation is noteworthy, as is the finely crafted menu.
Located at Sole East- 90 Second House Road, Montauk- the Backyard is open: Sunday- Thursday 8am-10pm, Friday & Saturday 8am-11pm, with Bossa Nova Sunday Brunch 10am-2pm.
Sole East can accommodate event tenting for weddings and other celebrations, open-air exercising, live music, outdoor movie screening, indoor workshops, aquatic exercise, indoor yoga/meditation and massage and many other activities. For reservations, or information on catering and special events please contact Backyard Restaurant at (631) 668-9739 or go to https://www.soleeast.com/restaurant