by Sue Giustino
Located across from the northwestern edge of Fort Pond on Second House Rd., the Grill at Ruschmeyers opened in May under new management. Walking into the restaurant you’re greeted by a ‘living room’ setting with cozy couches set just in front of the bar. With a vaulted ceiling and expansive windows, the adjacent dining room brings the warm, woodsy feel of the surrounding grounds indoors. The space is decorated with an indoor garden theme, creating a tranquil retreat reminiscent of a secluded country lodge.
After being greeted and escorted to our seats by the GM Berton, our waiter Colin filled us in on the menu. Since we hadn’t dined there yet, he provided a few recommendations. We continued to peruse the enticing menu while enjoying delightful glasses of the Sancerre and the Pino Grigio, and a few cocktails. The Pillow Talk was a hit; blended with Bombay Sapphire, Crème De Violette, Maraschino, Lemon, and local Lavendar, it may sound very botanical but don’t let that fool you, it’s actually has a perfect balance. Similarly well crafted, the Zoltan’s Fortune is a tasty blend of Illegal Mezcal, Za’atar Honey and bitters. The drinks menu includes artisanal cocktails, ‘Grown Up’ Slushies, Mocktails, Beer & Seltzer as well as a full list of wines and bubbles by the glass or bottle.
Wanting to sample something from each category; Raw Bar, Small Plates, Garden, Large Plates and Sides, we gathered our selections. For Appetizers, we decided on the Montauk Fluke Ceviche and Mozzarella Sticks -per Colin’s recommendation, as well as the Corn & Crab Fritters and the Shaved Fennel Salad.
Offering a zesty citrusy flavor, the bite sized chunks of Fluke were marinated with thinly sliced red onion, celery and cilantro. The generous portion is served in a bowl with a side of crisp plantain chips, a perfect choice for this bold Ceviche. The Mozzarella Sticks have a perfectly crispy light coating with a soft cheese center and topped with a sprinkling of grated parmesan. They are served with sides of fresh marinara and a creamy avocado salsa, each one is delicious, yet we found that these mozzarella sticks are good enough to stand-alone; for sure the best I’ve eaten. We ordered the Corn & Crab Fritter for something different from the usual Montauk fare, and it was a great idea. Like the sticks, the lightly coated and crispy fritters have a creamy jumbo lump crab filling with a pop of sweet corn. They are served with a side of aji peach hot sauce which perfectly accents the gentle flavors of the fritters. For a lovely and refreshing summer salad, the Shaved Fennel with cauliflower, jalapeno and cilantro is a great choice. 
This salad gets a lemony zest from the bed of labneh which is similar to Greek yogurt -with a dense and creamy consistency and a tangy flavor, but it’s richer and less tart than Greek yogurt – and Za’atar, an herb blend of wild herbs central to Middle Eastern cuisine offering a blend of lemony, herby, and toasted sesame tastes.
Designed as sharable, each section of the menu consists of items offering bold coastal flavors and fresh local produce, as well as a few summer grill favorites. From the Large Plates, we were pleasantly surprised that the Whole Branzino was deboned, cooked tender and topped with a fresh flavorful Salsa Verde-a Spanish sauce primarily tomato-based, getting its distinctive green hue from tomatillos. The mild fish is elevated with the addition of the sauce with an added bit of texture from the crisp confit potatoes. The tasty and lightly dressed Lobster Roll is prepared with Maine lobster, pepperoncini and smoked paprika on a toasted brioche bun and served with crispy French fries. Included on the menu are two delicious summer pastas. The Spaghetti is prepared with a lemony garlic and butter clam sauce, and topped with fresh steamed clams. Tagliatelle in a Fra diavola sauce with a gentle spicy pop blended with succulent chunks of Maine lobster and fennel pollen. Each pasta dish was cooked perfectly al dente boasting light fresh flavors. All of our meals were fresh and delicious with simple herbal blends enhancing the natural flavors of the base of each dish.
Dessert is always a welcome treat, and the two we sampled at The Grill were exceptional. Soaked in red wine, honey and the natural juices of the fruit, the Poached Nectarines with fresh cream had a lovely tart flavor balanced well with the fresh cream. The classic creamy Cheese Cake had a thin citrusy cake layer and served with a drizzle of olive oil. To top off our meal, Colin shared samples of the Frozen Espresso Martini – an adult slushy for sure. It’s very tasty and refreshing, for someone who doesn’t usually drink espresso, the blend of liquors created a wonderful drink that even I enjoyed.
While speaking with Colin, he explained that for the freshest quality they source their ingredients locally, the produce from down the road at Balsam Farms and the Cheese Cake from the Bake shop in town.
Ruschmeyers originally opened in 1952. Having undergone many changes and updates since then, it now features 19 redesigned guest cabins nestled behind the restaurant in a wooded grove. Each eclectic, cozy room is designed to reflect the spirit of Montauk – relaxed, stylish, and full of charm. A spacious ‘backyard’ area sits between the restaurant and the rooms complete with a walkway between sandy areas dotted with tables and chairs, and fire pits perfect for evening gatherings or roasting s’mores. Be sure to check the website https://ruschmeyers.com/ for additional information including hours and up to date room/get-away specials throughout the fall.