Escape from Paradise with Ingrid Lemme-Chalut: October 2025

The Greenbrier: Where Legends Linger

From sulphur springs to storied fairways, four days at America’s Resort reveal a world where history, luxury, and memory meet.

There are destinations that impress and those that imprint. The Greenbrier does both. Over four days, we slipped into the resort’s rhythm like settling into a favorite song: arrival, tea, dinner, long walks through boldly patterned corridors, early breakfasts with waiters who are part of the Greenbrier’s living history, a little golf, a lot of spa, and a surprising dose of small-town charm just beyond the gates.

We arrived for lunch at The Humble Tomato in historic Lewisburg, where wood-fired pizzas and a cheerful garden patio offered the perfect first taste of the valley. A quick visit to the Greenbrier Valley Visitors Center followed, where we met Valerie Pritt, Director of Public Relations. Her warm welcome reminded us that America’s Resort and the valley share a story—one that blends grandeur with community.

The first true exhale comes at the entrance to the Greenbrier. Arriving here feels less like checking into a hotel and more like stepping into a tradition: the sweep of the drive, the slowing of your pace, the sense that curiosity is waking up.

Our Draper-styled accommodations—big, joyful patterns and bold finishes—were as buoyant as the resort itself. The marble bathroom, with its separate WC and Greenbrier-branded amenities, sparkled. Plush bedding invited a slow exhale, while vibrant upholstery seemed to hum with decades of stories. With luggage already delivered, we did what everyone should on Day One: nothing ambitious. Just let the property introduce itself.

Piano music filled the lobby as Teresa Ambler—part of this ceremony for nearly 50 years—guided the experience. Over the decades, she has served countless famous guests, from John Travolta to Ron Howard, yet her fondest connections are with families who return year after year. I watched Mark and Joanne Sweeney greet her with a hug, as they always do. Each Christmas, Teresa receives a card from them—a reminder that her kindness lingers long after checkout. It’s no surprise she even appeared as a tea server in the movie Christmas at The Greenbrier, a fitting cameo for someone who embodies the resort’s traditions.

Dinner that evening was at Prime 44 West—comfortably plush, quietly celebratory. Marcus ordered tuna; I chose sea bass; we shared a Caesar salad finished tableside and a mango cheesecake that insisted on being split (though not equally). Under the direction of Executive Chef Bryan Skelding, each dish felt effortlessly elegant, balancing classic flavors with modern finesse. John, our server with 37 years of experience, moved through the dining room with a practiced ease that looked effortless but is built from decades of knowing exactly how to make guests feel cared for.

On the slow elevator ride back upstairs, we noticed preserved details like polished copper mailboxes, carved moldings, and historic hardware. The modern sheen never erases the patina of history, and even the rugs and upholstery, refreshed under Dorothy Draper Inc., still whisper of decades past.

Breakfast at the Main Dining Room blends grandeur with familiarity. During our first breakfast, we met Donnie Warlitner, Food & Beverage Director, whose warm welcome set the tone for our stay. Over the following mornings, we were greeted by Kathy Shelton, Main Dining Room Manager, as well as longtime waiters Stan and Dawn, whose easy warmth made us feel like regulars. Chandelier-lit ceilings, fresh omelettes, and crispy bacon added sensory delight to the ritual, blending majesty with comfort and personal connection.

Later, on a guided history tour, Theresa Thompson introduced us to nearly 250 years of the Greenbrier’s story. The hotel’s 11,000 acres hold more than walls—they carry the legacy of cottages, the Springhouse, and sweeping lawns that tell a story of place, community, and country.

One morning, we ran into Elmer Coppoolse, the Greenbrier’s COO, who warmly asked about our stay. Even a brief exchange reminded us that leadership at the resort is personal, hands-on, and deeply invested in the guest experience.

After a scenic poolside lunch of a club sandwich, we joined the bunker tour led by Rick Duncan. Sobering and fascinating, the hour-and-a-half journey traces the Cold War shadows behind the Greenbrier’s sparkle. Emerging into the sunlight, I found myself grateful for the small details: the quiet nod of a housekeeper, the patterned corridor underfoot, the soft hum of a resort at the peak of its game.

The Greenbrier Mineral Spa treats wellness as a legacy. My therapist, Tarisa, guided me through the signature trio: sulphur bath, Swiss shower, and massage. The sulphur bath, a throwback to the resort’s earliest identity, felt like slipping into a chapter of local history. The Swiss shower—a hydrotherapy experience with jets sprayed at multiple angles—was both cleansing and invigorating, preparing me for a semi-deep tissue massage that untangled muscles I had forgotten existed.

Meanwhile, Marcus rode the legendary Old White course in a golf cart, first opened in 1914. Guided by his forecaddie, Evan Ramsey, a knowledgeable local, he experienced fairways where Sam Snead dazzled and modern PGA champions tested their mettle. Evan shared stories of famous shots, course quirks, and even the challenges amateur golfers face. “It’s more than golf,” Marcus said. “It’s walking through a living museum of golf history.”

We met Jimmie Winston, the Greenbrier’s 2024 Man of the Year, who introduced me to the staff behind Draper’s Café, including the Chef preserving Dorothy Draper’s famous chicken salad recipe. Later, a carriage ride with Karl Diem—46 years of service—reminded us that the resort, for all its scale, can still feel intimate. As we crossed a wooden bridge, Karl fed the wild trout, weaving history, landscape, and personal stories into the experience.

One evening, dinner at The Schoolhouse Hotel in White Sulphur Springs—a former school turned fully accessible boutique hotel—offered a playful contrast. Its Varsity restaurant balances nods to history with a modern palate. Chef Jesus Vazquez’s Summer Gnocchi with Plums stole the show: pillowy gnocchi met tart-sweet late-summer plums and fresh mint.

Another night, dinner at Livery Tavern in Lewisburg showcased local mastery under Chef Nathan Leech. My trout, crowned with feathered crab meat and crisped Brussels sprouts, was delicate yet earthy. Marcus’s filet with charred broccolini proved simplicity executed well was sublime. The goat’s milk ice cream with wild blueberries provided the perfect finale, a sweet punctuation to a masterclass of polished flavors.

For another dining option, we recommend The French Goat in Lewisburg as well. Celebrating a decade of sophisticated French-inspired cuisine, it continues to delight locals and visitors alike, offering dishes that balance elegance with comfort.

Our final days blended resort life with exploration of its immediate surroundings. We visited the Presidents’ Cottage Museum, walked the Virtue art row, and paused to reflect on the countless stories embedded in the resort’s fabric.

A stop at Mountain Steer Meat Company, run by lifelong farmers James Tuckwiller and Frank Ford, highlighted the region’s dedication to clean, local meats, many of which supply the valley’s restaurants. Meeting them in person emphasized the deep connection between the Greenbrier Valley and the people who sustain its culinary traditions.

Our last meal, at Gustard’s Bistro, was simple but celebratory: a crisp local green salad with strawberries and perfectly battered fish ’n chips. Chef Gustard, trained at the Greenbrier, and his work is a reminder that the resort’s influence extends far beyond its gates.

Just a few miles up the road from The Greenbrier, the Pomona Salt Cave & Spa offers another unique wellness experience. Its Himalayan salt cave creates a calming microclimate, perfect for halotherapy, deep breathing, and stress relief. Whether for relaxation or respiratory support, it’s a short detour that promises lasting renewal.

Driving out of the pumpkin-studded valley, we realized: The Greenbrier is never just a resort. It’s a community, a legacy, and an inspiration that lingers long after checkout.

Until next month from another interesting location.