Surfing Keeps You Sane
If you surf and you hear “surfing is the new golf” you are likely cringing. Now that Montauk has become The St. Tropez of the East Coast and it wouldn’t be a summer without a Pop-Up something, surfing is no longer a slacker hobby but a chic badge of honor (much like Montauk itself). There is a metaphor in there.
One of the real reasons to surf is to get centered and reconnecting with yourself, it is rarely about “being cool” and more about being more self-aware.
There is a reason surfing is worshipped, and has been compared to a religious experience, why some feel they are addicted or why the day is just that much better after surfing. Its also the intangible quality of what you have to navigate in the water and the environment, because it will always be a surprise.
The conditions change, your ability varies, your mood, skills, how much sleep you had the night before, and the people in the water all play a role in what kind of session you are going to have. If you love variety, this is your past time.
The golf analogy comes to mind not only for the exclusiveness and place to bond over business, but it allows you to understand a person as their personality plays out in front of you. Are they easily frustrated? Hostile to fellow surfers? Quiet? Cheerful? Rooting for people especially those that are learning? Do they persist and refuse to give up until they get a decent wave? Are they hard on themselves when they are performing quite well? Do they ignore the rules? Are they reckless? Territorial? Do they have anxiety, fear or lack confidence?
We speak through our bodies and surfing is no exception. The best comparison to golf (and yoga) is that you are never going to achieve the top level. You are never going to be perfect. Some days are amazing, others are totally off. And that’s what keeps us coming back. Is that what facilitates the obsession? Trying for perfection? The chance for the big win, the great session, the best round? Its quite humbling to continue to persue and activity where some days you’re the Queen of the Castle and other days you may just suck. There are no guarntees and you go into it hoping for the best. Given the time, energy and effort it takes to dedicate to surfing, the rewards must be worth it. This is the true reason to get in the water. It keeps you humble, it keeps you sharp, and it keeps you sane.