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| I just came across a story touting Ireland as a new surfing sanctuary with consistent swells and challenging waves. Readers were also warned that summer water temperature reaches a maximum of 60 degrees Fahrenheit and hovers around 50 degrees Fahrenheit in the harsh winter. A Montauk surfer’s pipedream is the ability to ride waves all winter in a celebratory temperature of 50 degrees. Ireland and Iceland seem to be the buzz as pockets of coastline in the world that once were considered untouched are vanishing faster than the erosion at the Lighthouse. Yet no matter how frozen we feel after a short session in Montauk’s waters, we return for more into a slowly swelling lineup.

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Inspired by the promises of becoming a stronger, better surfer the decision to surf in the winter in Montauk served a large dose of cognitive dissonance to someone that hates being cold. Told that there is warmth in numbers and to abide by all of the clever tricks I now take for granted, I have unearthed a few more in the ever-changing surfing landscape.
Safety in Numbers: Surfing in winter used to resemble “Tumbleweed Tuesday,” the notorious nickname for Montauk the day after Labor Day. Stunned by the onslaught of crowds on one November morning, when trying to park at Camp Hero required a shoehorn. Witnessing a few fights, drop-ins and paddle battles, we had to resist the temptation to forge off on our own and find the perfect spot in isolation.
Resist it. Maybe it is packed near the jetty, so you want to surf Poles alone. Unless you are with a friend or two, drift near a few surfers no matter how frustrating. This too, will increase your skills of patience, tolerance and creativity as a surfer, as afforded the opportunity only in the off-season. Fortunately, there are few novices out there in the dead of winter, and most cannot endure more than a two or three hour session. Hoods and earplugs up the ante by dulling your senses, yet the cheering and hollering really does help keep you focused off the cold and on your surfing. When all you hear is the sound of your own-echoed breathing, it is time to find some friends nearby to surf with you.
Chilly temperatures also trigger stiff and sore muscles, and getting caught in a current, fatigue from paddling, or knocked out by your board is relatively comforting when others are around and looking out for you. It may seem crowded because the bar is so low, so keep in mind this is a delightful hiatus from the summer crowd. There is often shock and nostalgia when we find ourselves wishing for the return of winter in the middle of August.
The Suit: With a 6mm that was a few sizes too big, my boots and gloves tucked over my wetsuit, my first winter surfing broke new ground in being green. An onslaught of water seeped in my boots and gloves with each paddle, feeling more like cinderblocks than neoprene. Just short of drowning, my discovery resulted in the purchase of a new 5mm wetsuit that fits, 7mm boots and 7mm gloves, and a fresh mindset it will make surfing without all of this gear that much more liberating. Finding suitable boots and gloves took practice. Split toe boots with the split inside removes the chance of the leash being caught between your toes, and gloves that are more like mittens than a claw will keep your fingers from feeling lonely or that they might spontaneously fall off since you can no longer feel them. Staying toasty for a few hours in the water, my session ends with my going right to the car and right into the shower in all of my gear, even the hood.
Warming Up: Forty-degree water and air temperature in the dead of winter boosts your chances for stiffness, so stretch adequately before and after, preferably in your warm house, not on the beach or few a few seconds in your car while it’s running. Ideally, familiarizing yourself with basic yoga stretches or making time to take a class a few times a week yields benefits beyond greater flexibility and reduction of lactic acid build up in your muscles. Yoga brings about the sense of calm, stillness and centering, skills needed to stay on that board and not go under too many times. Unless you prefer brain freeze?
Storage: Weekend warriors in the winter, we had a serious discussion last weekend about the need for a spare winter wetsuit when surfing twice in one day or two days in a row when the suit is not yet dry. Excessive? Probably. Our friend Greg discovered a technique for warming up the suit quickly for a second use in the near future by hanging it in his boiler room. With the dry, hot air, the suit is ready to go, with minimal damage one may accrue when tossing items in the dryer in a pinch, as we have with gloves, boots, rash guards and even the wetsuit. Not only will you make a mess of the dryer with your sand and salt-water residue, the intense heat speeds up the decline in longevity of your suit. You want your suit to last, fit snugly and stay in the best condition for as long as possible. Be sure to rinse your suit in fresh water after each use, again easily incorporated in the shower-from-the-beach method.
Getting Ready: We are spoiled. Those that do not surf in the winter think we are anything but by engaging in this activity. Yet there are only a few precious months until the glut of tourists swamp the beaches and crowds flood the line up. The blitz will begin as Memorial Day approaches; photographers peddling photos of you surfing for a fee, non-local, wily surf “instructors” shamelessly marketing themselves as they solicit beginners that do not know better, and sheer numbers of surfers that inundate the waves in a reckless fashion. Yet every summer we manage to survive, have fun and take advantage of days when we are far from seeing our breath and numbing out limbs. As the breaks in Montauk become more crowded, we adjust, share and make room for those that we were once like. Hopefully, they will appreciate what they have in Montauk as much as we do. We are spoiled. And grateful. |