COLUMNS

Puerto Rico..Roots, Rock, Reggae

by Debra Rose

Puerto Rico was not what I had expected. San Juan was always a layover to another destination in the Caribbean, never a destination itself. Bring surfing into the picture, and the image of Puerto Rico changes.

Choosing a vacation during Christmas and New Years is a challenge. Literally all over the map, half of the group wanted to surf, the rest were looking for warmth and a short flight. Enter Puerto Rico.

This tiny island, smaller than Delaware and more diverse than most islands in the Caribbean, offers West African, Caribbean, Latin, Cuban, European, Asian, and American influences. Puerto Rico is a paradox of strip malls and local markets, fast food restaurants and local vendors, luxury resorts and low-key surf towns, high rises and post-Columbus forts built in 1634.

Isla Verde, San Juan is a stretch of beach that is the home to luxury hotels, strip malls and close proximity to the airport, where Starbucks withdrawal was not an issue. Soy latte deprivation is tolerable while staying in a hut on one of the world’s most far-flung secluded beaches, and Puerto Rico felt much more Miami than Maldives. American currency, the English language, Taco Bell, and baseball, we were not quite far enough away to forgo the usual comforts.

The El San Juan Hotel and Casino was our home for five days and four nights. Decked out it flashes of leopard and zebra print chaise lounges, plush, strategically placed velvet couches, shag rugs, colored lights and a steady beat of muted house music personified the lobby, pool and elevators. The El San Juan channeled South Beach; Miami meets the rainforest. Adorned with the arbitrary Christmas tree and white lights, the lobby was aglow with mood lighting, dark woods and crystal chandeliers encasing a colossal sized bar. Hot tubs, waterfalls and lounge chairs that could be mistaken for giant oyster shells sectioned off the pool area, dotted with beds and canopies that paid a tropical tribute to The Gates exhibit. Private cabanas equipped with a flat screen, wireless Internet and fluffy lounge chairs were available for rental along side the swim and walk up bars serving icy Pina Coladas and chilled bottled beer, cranking the South Beach factor up a notch.

Beaches were not quite as crowded as Waikiki, but clearly not secluded as a villa in Antigua. The current was strong here, and as a result, the water was sand infused whirlpool in colors that were a few shades bluer than the Atlantic off Montauk in the summer time. Hotel rooms echoed Andy Warhol’s playhouse, equipped with iphone and iPod chargers, flat screens, white furniture with clean lines and bold color decorations.

El San Juan also housed the “hottest night club” on the strip, complete with velvet rope, cover charge and overpriced bottle service. To escape the thumping beats and maize of reserved and crowded beach chairs, we explored the local life beyond the hotel.

Christmas dinner at The Palm gave the semblance of home in East Hampton, and lived up to our expectations through the massive hunk of carrot cake and light and sweet crème brulee that punctuated our meal. Our original reservations at Tangerine in the Boat House Hotel had cool, modern interior matched with an even cooler reception. The hostess feigned confusion and curtly told us that our reservation “disappeared.” Miles from home our vacation abruptly infuses with old-fashioned New York attitude (which is even worse than Hamptons-in-the-summer attitude). With arrogance minus the credentials to justify it, we stumbled upon haughty façade rather than haute cuisine. Avoid this mediocre haunt in cheap, trendy clothing.

About an hour drive from San Juan and 28,000 acres in size, El Yunque rainforest offers steep hills to hike, cooler temperatures and refreshing waterfalls. Hiking trails around trees over 1000 years old, we were surrounded by hundreds of plant and animal species, over sixty species of birds, endangered parrots, freshwater shrimp, boas, and echoing sounds of the celebrated mascot, Coqui frogs. A cool day out of the sun left us rested for an evening in the famed Old San Juan.

The charm of Old San Juan and history of Puerto Rico is evident in the architecture. Defined by towering cathedrals, winding cobblestone streets, colonial forts, old-fashioned villas, museums, parks, and plazas, Old San Juan’s shops and streets are also saturated with tourists from nearby cruise ships, complete with vendors selling crafts and trinkets on every corner. The old city is also the most photographed and most memorable site on the island, and our last excursion before the trek to Rincon.

Five friends had rented a house on the beach for the sole purpose of surfing, transforming our Puerto Rico experience with each mile we crossed on our way to the North West Little Corner of the island. One hundred miles on a road peppered with ubiquitous fast food restaurants of Wendy’s and Burger King, our journey brought about the feeling of a new island. Vanishing were the high rises and crowd as we arrived at a house nestled right on the beach complete with ocean view and direct beach access; a galaxy away from the El San Juan Hotel and Casino.

In a surfing town with a strong Montauk-esque vibe, regulars at the local bar requested “rum floaters” with their Pina Coladas, one admitting his affinity for “BBC’s from Cyril’s.” We knew then that Rincon hones the honorary title of Montauk South, possibly eclipsing Costa Rica and Tortola and all places once elusive to everyone but local surfers that spend the majority of winter in the cold waters of Montauk.

Surfing at sunrise, visiting various surf spots and experiencing of real Puerto Rican food, or the closest thing to it, we had not found the local dish Mofungo, but tasted rich Paella that was made to order with firm yet tender rice, fresh seafood and bold flavor.

Making a stop at the renowned international jewelry retailer, Little Switzerland in the Ritz Carlton Hotel was the crown jewel of our stay. The ever-helpful associate Blaine was knowledgeable, funny and accommodating to our every request, even remembering us when I called the store upon my return to New York. Still thinking about a beautiful pair of earrings I had tried on and grown attached to, Blaine helped secure the purchase, shipment and care of the earrings, which arrived on my doorstep in Montauk a week later. Not only had Blaine remembered us and the earrings he personally assured with purchase over the phone, shipping them the next day and calling back to ensure we were satisfied. It was a fabulous ending to a most unexpected vacation.

From San Juan, I have the memory of El Yunque, Old San Juan, the aura of resorts and the earrings from Little Switzerland. From Rincon I have mellow days of fun surf with good friends and local food. From Puerto Rico, I have a new knowledge of a place previously overlooked. Chock full of surprises, discovering the culture, history and surfing in Puerto Rico is turning the island into a destination, no longer a mere stop-over on a flight elsewhere.

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