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The Impact Zone: Surfing Montauk
By Debra Rose
Think of it this way: Nature is in charge.
For those of us that have not been surfing all of our lives and yet exist in the surfing culture embedded within the shores and soul of Montauk, learning the sport has all the earmarks of pure fun and grace and is unique due to the power of nature’s forces, it is as adventurous as it is fearsome. In order to bridge the chasm between being a spectator and actually surfing, there are many nuggets of information to absorb, so what are you waiting for?
Are you fit? You may not need to be a contestant for the Iron Man competition, but an adequate level of fitness is crucial, particularly the strength and endurance as a swimmer, being sure that you can feel comfortable in the area you choose with or without your surfboard. Surfing requires the ability to paddle, carve and ride waves, taking a toll physically if you are not prepared, or if you have eaten a meal less than thirty minutes before you are in the water.
Quick stretches before surfing are recommended, especially the main, largest muscle groups to avoid injuries and going into the water without feeling warmed-up. Most importantly, be sure there is a friend or other surfers with you in the water, since every wave and day are different in the ocean, you never know what may go wrong.
After having the frustrating experience of paddling out only to learn that the board is too slippery, I have made it a priority to wax up the board each time I surf, which later allowed me to get to my feet without slipping off. Apply it to the deck of the board only, all along the rails as well.
Having a leash (leg rope) attached to the board and Velcro it to the ankle, a priority in keeping your board safe from crashing into rocks and the shore. It also assures you of keeping other surfers safe from your board hitting them like a wild rocket.
The type of board you choose depends on your skills and preferences. The modern, hand shaped board of foam and fiberglass is a radical departure from the original wooden planks used by the Hawaiians. Four types of boards include the Short board (Thruster), which is used for fast and complex maneuvers, usually ranging from 5’8” to 6’10” and is the most popular design. The Long board (Malibu) typically has three fins, and ranges from 7’2” to 9’0” or more, but most Montauk surfers will say a “true long board” is at least nine feet long. The Fish, similar to a short board is smaller and wider than the short board, appearing more round and closer to 4’8” to 6’0.” The Gun is a bigger short board, used for paddling in big waves and can range from 7’2” to over 12” in length. For beginners, the long board is the best for catching waves are more stable and hold more weight.
The wetsuit, made of the stretchy material neoprene, is essential if you are surfing in Montauk after Labor Day and before Memorial Day. The thicker the suit, the warmer the surfer, as the smallest layer of water in the suit heats the skin. A Shortie suit is ideal for water around 70 degrees, while a three quarter length Spring suit is better for temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees. Full suits, booties, gloves, wetsuit socks and a hood are recommended for water below 60 degrees. Finding the best fit is ideal, since if it is too tight your movements are restricted and less flexible, and if too baggy, blasts of cold water will infiltrate the suit each time you duck under a wave.
“You should have been here yesterday, yesterday was the day!” often heard on the beaches around Montauk when arriving to surf for the weekend. It takes a while to learn the language, but some terms are frequent, prominent and are often lost in translation if any other word is used to describe their meaning.
Air, when a surfer and the board jump on top of the wave
Barrel, when a breaking wave creates a hollow opening (or tube)
Carve, the timeless movement of turning on a wave
Cutbacks, maneuvering to change direction into reverse while surfing a wave
Drop, criminal when catching waves, dropping-in on someone that has priority
Goofy, when you surf with your right foot forward and regular when your left is forward
Hang, when riding a long board, dropping the toes over the edge of the nose
Hang five, hanging five toes over the nose
Hang ten, hanging all ten toes over the nose of the board
Offshore winds, ideal for surfing while on shore blows toward land and ruins the waves
Nose, the tip of the surfboard,
Tail, the back
Rail, the sides of the board from nose to tail
Rip, the strong and dangerous current that can pull surfers out to sea
Worked, akin to wipeout, getting tossed around and held under a crashing wave
Zulu, Universal Standard Time, Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) used for weather charts
As any local surfer in Montauk will attest, the unspoken rules are implicit and vital to participating in one of the world’s greatest sports and the pulse of the east end.
• Surfing under the influence, should be saved for the end of the day at any of the Montauk hot spots noted in the Montauk Sun, not in Ditch Plains.
• Noticing swimmers, surf conditions and other surfers is a must. Be aware at all times.
• Hold on to your board when paddling out, and stay clear of surfers already in the line catching waves as best as you can
• Throw your board if you are going to wipeout to avoid injuring yourself and
dinging up (damaging) your board
• Dropping in is a no-no and bad behavior can get vicious reactions in the water. The surfer that is the closest to the breaking wave has priority, so wait to take the next one if someone is already on it
• Most importantly, relax, and have fun!
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